Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Low pressure burner testing

BrewPictures  008
The first question I had when designing my brewing system was what type of energy to use. My first choice was steam, but that was a pipe dream (pun intended). Next was electric for a variety of reasons, but that option required me to upgrade my electric panel, which was cost prohibitive. That left me with either propane or natural gas as options. I decided on natural gas because it is more economical, the idea of refilling tanks regularly was not appealing, and I could easily see myself running out of gas in the middle of a brew session.
An initial test run on the system produced poor results. After nearly 2 hours of heating, it hadn’t reached a boil. Some testing was needed to increase the performance of the burners (a link to the spreadsheet data is at the bottom of the page).
The areas to be tested were:
  1. burner height – the distance from the burner to the kettle
  2. heat transfer – using a more conductive metal to transfer thermal energy from the flame to the kettle
  3. ventilation – insufficient ventilation chokes the flame
  4. gas pressure – the burners were designed to work optimally at 11” WC of pressure, while most utility companies deliver gas to residential buildings at 7-9” WC.
For all tests, 10 gallons of 75°F water was heated on a single 10” low pressure burner, and temperature readings were taken every 5 minutes.
1-DSC_0005burner height
The first tests (test #1 in the chart below) involved adjusting the burner mount height. The heat shield/burner mount has a split open back to allow for rear ventilation above the burner, and comes with 3 sets of holes for adjusting the distance between the burner and the bottom of the kettle. The distance from the bottom hole to the top hole is approximately 1”, and while there was a slight difference in performance between the top mounting hole and the bottom, the results were not significant (which is why only one of the tests is charted). After 50 minutes, the best configuration was at 170.7°F.
heat transfer
I consulted my friend/assistant brewer, Eric, who is a mechanical engineer by trade, and for test #3, a homemade heat sink was built out of a thick plate of aluminum and aluminum angle iron to capture more heat from the exhaust and transfer it to the kettles. This increased heat transfer, but after 50 minutes the water had only reached 187.3°F.
BrewPictures  007ventilation
The next test involved creating a chimney (test #4). Just like with a house chimney, less dense hot air rises and is replaced by more dense, cooler air. This is referred to as the “stack effect”. The greater the thermal difference and the height of the chimney, the greater the stack effect.. We built a semi-enclosed chimney out of a 90 degree register box and sheet metal to force air to flow up from the bottom of the burner and out of the back. We tested it with and without a 6’ chimney (that’s not a typo, it was 6 feet tall), but both tests resulted in lower temperatures than with the aluminum heat sink.
gas pressure
I had the gas company come out and test/adjust the pressure to the house. I was at 7.3” WC at the main line to the house, and 6.7” WC at the line to my brew rig (acceptable range is 7-9” WC, according to the technician). He adjusted it up to 7.5” WC at the brew rig, which is the highest he was allowed to adjust it, but then volunteered to show me how to adjust the pressure myself “just in case I wanted to know how it works.”  I increased the pressure to approximately 8.6” WC, switched out the flex lines to the burner for larger diameter flex lines that were previously on order, and then ran two more tests.
BrewPictures  009Test #6 was with both the aluminum heat sink and the chimney at the new increased gas pressure. After 50 minutes, the temperature was 182.6°F, just shy of test #3, which took place before the gas pressure to the house was increased. This suggested that the chimney setup wasn’t helping.
In test #7, the chimney was removed and only the aluminum heat sink was used. At 50 minutes I was at 206.7°F, and at 55 minutes I was boiling.
Test #7 was by far the best results out of all of the tests, and is what I chose to stick with. A spreadsheet with the full test results can be found here. Below is a chart showing the performance over time for the tests mentioned above.

6 comments:

  1. Good stuff and thanks for doing some of the work for me. We just moved into a new house and I had to install new gas lines for the dryer so I decided to run a line for the brew setup.

    I'm curious about the different burner setups. What made you choose yours vs the 23 or 32 tip jet burner?

    Also do you mind detailing how you have it plumbed from the wall to the burner? (i.e. flex hose to ball valve to burner). Did you use a regulator?

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  2. I chose these burners because they are way more quiet that the jet burners, for the large, even surface area that they covered, and because from what I've read, the jet burners are not designed to have the gas flow rate turned down during mashing (although I know a guy who has them and they take adjustment to a reasonable level without issue). I've seen arguments in favor of both.

    I had to run my own gas lines as well. I ran black pipe under the house to the location that I would be brewing, then put a quick disconnect and ball valve on the wall. I ran 5/8" hose with disconnects from the wall to the stand. All of the burners are controlled with electric solenoids through a BCS-462, and also have a manual valve added to adjust flow rate. There are flex lines from the solenoids to the burners.

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  3. Hey Luke, I have been toying with the idea of doing exactly the same thing as you. Black pipe to a quick disconnect mounted on the outside of my house near my garage, and 5/8" hose from the house to my stand. I think I have some of the cheapest rates on NG in the country so it would lower my brewing costs, on top of being much more convenient.

    You post has me rethinking this. At the very least I need to figure out what my pressure looks like before I move ahead with it. I am sick of doing the propane tank thing, but at least I don't have to worry about getting to a boil.

    Anyway, thanks for posting this info as it gives me some things to think about as I move forward with my plans.

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  4. If you don't have access to a manometer, the gas company will come out and check and adjust your pressure for free. Adjusting the pressure is very simple, but for liability reasons I won't recommend you do it yourself.

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  5. Thanks Luke, I have looked into this more and will probably go with the same burner. It seems like the 23 or 32 tip jet burners are a bit overkill once boiling. I also like the fact that the Hurricane burner has a replaceable orifice so I could switch to propane if I wanted to go mobile. And I'll make sure to check my pressure before hooking it up.

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  6. I think you'll be happy with your decision. Something I didn't mention in my post, but is an issue for any type of burner, is wind. I would make sure you are brewing in an area protected from wind, or design some sort of contraption to block wind (I use a folding table turned on its side). I've seen some stands with wind skirts built around them to help with this, which I may do in the future. My positioning and pressure are sufficient now -- only a very strong wind will disrupt my burner enough to make me break out the table.

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